Fixing the “Transmission: Secure Vehicle From Rolling” Error in Our 2017 Mini Cooper

A few weeks ago we started getting an error on the dash of the 2017 Mini Cooper (which only has 43k miles on it) which said “Transmission: Secure vehicle from rolling” whenever we parked it. The car is most definitely in Park and can’t be pushed, but the computer thinks it’s not. The dealer quoted $2200 to replace the shifter assembly – ouch!

I found the new part (25-16-8-483-097) online for a bit under $600. However, I discovered on the F56 Mini forum that the common failure is actually just a broken spring inside the shifter. Since the majority of the effort is getting the interior apart to actually get access to the shifter, I figured it was worth the $10 for the replacement part off ebay and a few hours of effort to try this repair myself. I figured if I got it apart and it wasn’t the spring, then most likely it’s the solenoid inside the unit and at that point I could order the $600 part with the only downside being the car would be undriveable for a few days.

In fairness all of the info and photos below are gathered from a number of youtube links. However I find youtube to be a really poor way of following instructions when doing vehicle repairs, so I translated the mix of 3 different videos into one procedure shown below.


Aside from a regular set of philips and flat head screwdrivers, you’ll need some torx bits and a socket set or wrenches for this. Nothing fancy.

Gear Selector Removal

  1. Disconnect battery
  1. Detach gear shifter ring 
  2. Press yellow tab and shift into neutral.  Detach wiring harness
  3. Pull up on shifter (hard) to remove it
  4. Remove kick panels (T20)
  5. Remove side panels (they just pop apart with clips)
  6. Remove screws under side panels 
  7. Remove rear plastic of center console, just pops off 
  8. Disconnect cigarette lighter in rear 
  9. Pull off face for front cigarette lighter area 
  10. Remove lighter assembly (push in 2 tabs) 
  11. Pop off remaining side panels 
  12. Pull up on center console panel.  Be careful of all the attached wiring
  13. Detach 2 connectors
  1. Remove 2 cupholder screws 
  2. Cupholder lifts out, there is a wiring harness so be careful
  1. Unclip wiring harness from cupholder (there is only one)
  2. Unplug cigarette lighter and wiring harnesses 
  3. Detach all the remaining wiring harnesses from the center console 
  4. Pry retaining clip off the console 
  5. Remove wiring from rear module 
  6. Lift out center console 
  7. Remove screw from remaining plastic 
  8. Lift out plastic 
  9. Disconnect remaining wiring retaining clips 
  10. Remove last wiring harness from shifter 
  11. Pry off cable retaining clip from shifter assembly 
  12. Remove the 4 silver nuts and lift up the shifter assembly 
  13. Align second retaining clip to center and push to remove 
  14. Detach assembly from cable and R&R assembly next 

Gear Selector R&R / Spring Replacement

  1. Unscrew housing
  1. Separate housing carefully 
  2. Remove shifter arm 
  3. Remove circuit board
  4. Remove plastic cantilever assembly 
  5. Use screwdriver to push out spring arm from bottom of housing 
  6. Push out pin from arm and remove spring
  7. Install new spring.  Spring arms should be straight/horizontal
  8. Reinstall spring arm
  9. Reinstall arm and circuit board
  10. Reinstall shifter arm 
  11. Screw housing back together

Gear Shifter Reinstallation

  1. Slide in shifter cable and place shifter assembly onto the 4 bolt holes
  2. Reinstall shifter cable, align hole, and reinsert plastic clip 
  1. Reinstall shifter cable retaining clip 
  2. Reinstall nuts and wiring retaining clips
  3. Reinstall wiring harness to shifter 
  4. Reinstall plastic cover 
  5. Reinstall center console.  Make sure wires are routed correctly (i.e. cigarette lighter).  Reconnect all wiring harnesses and connectors
  6. Reinstall rear panel, reconnect wiring
  1. Reinstall cupholder, reconnecting the wire to it 
  2. Snap center console top into place and reattach bolts/screws
  3. Reinstall cigarette lighter and associated wiring 
  4. Reinstall 2 screws behind cigarette lighter panel 
  5. Snap cigarette lighter panel into place 
  6. Reinstall other screws for console top
  7. Reinstall side panels 
  8. Reinstall trim 
  9. Reconnect battery 


For those who prefer videos, this one shows what you need to do to dismantle the center console.  You don’t have to remove the seats, so you can save that step.

These videos show once we get the shifter out what needs to be done to open it up and replace the spring that went bad (starts around the 8:00 mark)

Line 6 DT50 Amp Repair

I have a Line6 DT50 112 tube amp I love. But over Christmas, the power transformer failed. Line6 no longer makes parts, but it turns out Mercury Magnetic makes an aftermarket replacement. It’s pricey at $300, but given another used tub amp would be at least double that I figured it was worth trying to fix. Digging into the issue, I used this site as a guide to the replacement:

Fortunately all the wire colors seemed to line up. Unfortunately it seems the green/yellow strip wires for the center tap and filament are actually different voltages, and ultimately I released the “magic smoke”. Guitar Works in Evanston took about 4 months but eventually was able to find the issue and source the bad capacitors and fix it. So now I have a working amp. Mostly.

One of the cool features of the Line6 amps are that they can model different amp sounds. There’s a switch called “topology” which allows you to cycle through 4 different amp simulators. According to this site, topology I is a clean Fender, topology II is Marshall, III is a Vox, and IV is a Mesa Boogie.

Unfortunately whatever I did seems to have messed up the output from topology I and III, which are quite a bit quieter now than II and IV. I’m still debugging this via the schematics I found, but will likely need Guitar Works to take another look to find whatever other capacitor or analog component is bad and causing a lack of volume.

For those who have problems with this amp in the future, I ran across this set of schematics online. I’m not an electronics repair expert, but if you are or you have a trusted local guitar repair shop this doc might be really helpful in troubleshooting your problems. (And if someone out there is really good with schematics and can help me figure out why topology I and III are now too quiet, please write me or post a reply!)

Good luck!